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Tommy Caldwell (born August 11, 1978) is an American rock climber. He is accomplished in several types of climbing, including sport climbing, hard traditional climbing, big-wall speed climbing and big-wall free climbing. He made the first ascents (FA) of some of the United States' hardest sport routes (as of 2008) including ''Kryptonite'' (5.14c/d) and ''Flex Luthor'' (a possible 5.15a) at the Fortress of Solitude, Colorado. In January 2015, Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson completed the first-ever free climb of the ''Dawn Wall'' of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park. It was documented by photos and journalistically by Tom Evans (see El Capitan). Caldwell is a big-wall climber, with the first free ascents (FFA) of a handful of El Capitan routes to his credit. In May, 2004 he completed the first free ascent of ''Dihedral Wall''. In 2005, he and Beth Rodden (swapping leads) made the third and fourth free ascents of ''The Nose''. Two days later, on October 16, Caldwell free-climbed ''The Nose'' in less than 12 hours. A few days later, Caldwell climbed ''The Nose'' in 11 hours, descended the ''East Ledges'', and then climbed ''Freerider'', topping out 12 hours later – the first ascent of two El Capitan free climbs in 24 hours. On El Capitan, Caldwell has also free-climbed: ''Lurking Fear'', ''Muir Wall'' (Cosgrove var. to Magic Mushroom finish, FFA), ''West Buttress'', ''Salathé'', ''Zodiac'' and ''Magic Mushroom''. Caldwell accidentally sawed off much of his left index finger with a table saw in 2001. Doctors were able to reattach the severed portion, but Caldwell subsequently had it removed so as not to hinder his climbing career. Caldwell and fellow climbers Beth Rodden, John Dickey and Jason Smith were held hostage by rebels in Kyrgyzstan in 2000. Caldwell ended up pushing a lone captor off a cliff, which led to their escape to government soldiers. A book about their ordeal, ''Over the Edge: The True Story of Four American Climbers' Kidnap and Escape in the Mountains of Central Asia'' was written by Greg Child.〔()〕 A follow-up article, "Back from the Edge", was published in ''Outside'' magazine the following year.〔(【引用サイトリンク】title=Mountaineering - Back from the Edge - Mountaineering - OutsideOnline.com )〕 Caldwell and Rodden married in 2003, and divorced in 2010. In 2012, he married photographer Rebecca Pietsch, they have a son, Fitz.〔(【引用サイトリンク】title=Summiting Yosemite's Dawn Wall, Climbers Make History )〕〔(【引用サイトリンク】 title=Abduction. Lost Finger. Now, a Rock Climber’s Tallest Hurdle. )〕 Caldwell gave a filmed lecture "How Becoming a Hostage and Losing a Finger Made Him a Better Climber". ==Notable ascents== * 2001: ''The Honeymoon is Over'' V 5.13 Longs Peak, Colorado, USA. FA with Beth Rodden belaying. * 2003: ''Flex Luthor'' (5.14d/15a?), Fortress of Solitude, Colorado, USA * 2003: ''West Buttress'' (FFA) VI 5.13c, El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, California, USA * 2004: ''Dihedral Wall'' (FFA) VI 5.14a, El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, California, USA * 2005: ''The Nose'' VI 5.13, 3rd/4th Free Ascent (with Beth Rodden), El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, California, USA * 2006: ''Linea di Eleganza'' VI 5.11b A3 90 degrees M7 Fitz Roy, Argentine Patagonia. FFA with Topher Donahue and Erik Roed. * 2008: ''Magic Mushroom'' (FFA) VI 5.14a with Justen Sjong, May 12–17, 2008, El Capitan, Yosemite, California, USA * 2012: ''Yosemite Triple Crown'' 5.13a, 1st All Free Ascent with Alex Honnold 〔(【引用サイトリンク】title=Caldwell, Honnold: Yosemite Free Triple Crown )〕 * 2014: ''Fitz Traverse'' VI 5.11d C1 65 degrees, First Ascent with Alex Honnold 〔(【引用サイトリンク】title=Caldwell, Honnold Complete Fitz Traverse )〕 * 2015: ''Dawn Wall'' (FFA) 5.14d with Kevin Jorgeson, December 27, 2014 – January 14, 2015, El Capitan, Yosemite, California, USA 抄文引用元・出典: フリー百科事典『 ウィキペディア(Wikipedia)』 ■ウィキペディアで「Tommy Caldwell」の詳細全文を読む スポンサード リンク
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